The cheese of the month for July 2022 is: two goats from northern Germany, from Catherine André in Bachenbruch and Hiob Schmitt in Asendorf

Bachenbruch, or more exactly Neubachenbruch, is a small village in Lower Saxony, halfway between Bremerhaven and Hamburg, where countless narrow channels and dams cut through the flat, boggy land and keep it dry, where in the fall the birch trunks’s silvery shine competes with apples‘ red one. I visited Catherine André years ago for my first cheese book, and that afternoon was one of the absolute highlights of my research. » Weiterlesen…

The cheese of the month for April 2022 is: Dome du Poitou from France

Milk in the form of cheese can take almost any shape, and if certain basics aren’t fixed by regulations and laws such as a PDO, the cheesemakers‘ freedom has no other limits than those set by nature. Which also means: it ain’t always easy to identify or define certain cheeses. How does a certain cheese „have to“ taste, look, feel? » Weiterlesen…

The cheese of the month for September 2021 is: Regowtaler from Capriolenhof in Brandenburg

I’ve been writing this monthly blog since February 2013 – theoretically this ought to be cheese of the month number 115 – and amongst the very first stars of the small Heinzelcheese universe, in May 2013, was Blühende Landschaften or flowering landscapes, my absolute favourite from Capriolenhof, which back then still called itself Schleusenhof Regow. More than eight years later, allow me to entrust another Capriolenhof gem to your turophile hearts: Regowtaler. » Weiterlesen…

The cheese of the month for May 2021 is: Buchette from Petra Elsen, Hommerdingen/Eifel

When I visited Petra Elsen on a research trip in May 2008 and wrote about her in my first cheese book, the title of that passage was “The Hommerdingen hero”: On the map Hommerdingen is just a tiny dot southwest of Bitburg, not far from the Luxemburg border, but in the new realm of German cheeses it deserves three stars: “one of the best cheesemakers, worth a special journey”. » Weiterlesen…

Sake meets cheese in February 2021: two lively, dancing Junmaishu and their perfect partners

For February we chose two Junmaishu which are quite acidity-driven, though with Sake that still tastes rather mild compared to white wine, a fact that’s convinced many who were looking for something more elegant than beer to have with their meal. » Weiterlesen…

The cheese of the month for June 2020 is: Grisette from Ziegenhof Scellebelle in Münster/Westphalia

„I’m so glad that with the cheese I finally found my life rhythm, and that is easily worth occasionally getting up in the middle of the night.“ This sentence has staid with me ever since I heard it from Sabine Jürß. There is so much in there. That you need structure to make it through life in a decent way. That it can take a while until you find the right structure. That it’s ok to go your own ways. Because getting up in the middle of the night also implies no or very little social life with regular 8 to 5/Monday through Friday people. Instead: sixty goats, a stall at the farmers market and French style cheese, like the Grisette, a small charcoal-coated lactic wheel. » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month December 2018: Endamı Nur from Miralem/İzmir, Turkey

As I wrote in my book „On Cheesemaking“ (well, so far only in German, Vom Käsemachen, but yes, a perfect Christmas present!), I think of cheese as a wonderful guiding star. The ever-growing group of Heinzelcheesetalkers can vouch for the fact that it has taken me to the most amazing corners of this world and return with the most wonderful cheeses and memories. Obviously I sometimes also head out with a certain producer or region in mind. But the most impressive findings are those serendipity has her saying in (remember the Camembert from Vietnam?!). As was the case with this cheese, made from goats milk, by Canan Urhan, in İzmir. » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month May 2018: Tymsboro from Mary Holbrook, Sleight Farm, Somerset/UK

April 21 was Raw Milk Appreciation Day, and on May 13 and 14 natural wine producers from around the world were gathering at Markthalle Neun in Berlin for another of Isabelle Légéron’s RAW Wine fairs, with the Heinzelcheesetalk that weekend featuring raw milk cheese – and therefore, this month’s cheese just has to be one too – ladies and gentlemen: Tymsboro! » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month March 2016: Wertacher Goass from Robert Maul/Allgäu, Germany

Regular Bergkäse, mountain cheese, is a more or less mature hard cheese from more or less happy cows. But there are alternatives, even in the Allgäu, like this not so hard goat cheese from a small creamery in Wertach with the sweet name „’s Molkefässle“ (the small whey barrel). For this Robert Maul turns untreated, raw goat’s milk into smallish round wheels. » Weiterlesen…

More Weißburgunder, Serendipity – and Alpine Goat Cheese

Seems like I’m on a Weißburgunder/Pinot Blanc run. Perhaps it’s the moon, so full and bright and white right now… Last night the 2014 from Johannes Sinß played its charms on me and my faithful friend serendipity first guided my hand towards a piece of Robert Maul’s lively, sweet alpine goat cheese, then made me play Norwegian Kari’s beautiful songs with it.
» Weiterlesen…