Four (!) cheeses of the month for July 2018, from the northern shores of Lake Balaton, Hungary

Wines from volcanic soils have become a real thing recently. Etna and Vesuvio, the Canares and Santorini, Dundee Hills and Gattinara all make for rather special aromas and textures in our wine glasses. Particularly interesting in this respect and still overlooked by many: Hungary. So when Robert Gilvesy from the eponymous wine estate in Badacsony on Lake Balaton’s northern shores invited me to this year’s Bohém Légyott I immediately reshuffled my diary and accepted. » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month June 2018: Serra da Estrela from Vale da Estrela, Centro de Portugal

It’s rare that a cheese that’s so hard to find as Serra da Estrela, from the eponymous mountains in the heart of Portugal nevertheless has so many fans. A pilgrimage to its origin had long been high on my list – and it’s finally happened! » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month May 2018: Tymsboro from Mary Holbrook, Sleight Farm, Somerset/UK

April 21 was Raw Milk Appreciation Day, and on May 13 and 14 natural wine producers from around the world will gather at Markthalle Neun in Berlin for another of Isabelle Légéron’s RAW Wine fairs, with the Heinzelcheesetalk that weekend featuring raw milk cheese – and therefore, this month’s cheese just has to be one too – ladies and gentlemen: Tymsboro! » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month April 2018: Raclette from Anniviers, Valais/CH

In theory April sounds like spring, even in Berlin, but this year it starts with Easter and snow. White Easter are not that unusual, when still at easter-egg-searching-age I remember quite a few chocolate-filled nests in my grandmother’s cold white garden. Fifty years later I positively rejoice in the low temperatures outside as they provide me with a perfect excuse to rave about Raclette instead of presenting you with spring-light Ricotta or the first chèvre. » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month March 2018: Duet from Andante Dairy, Petaluma/California

For the very last research for my cheese book (to be published in October!) I recently spent a week in San Francisco. The Fancy Food Show combined with the crazy competition party that is the Cheesemonger Invitational made for a perfect occasion to catch the latest updates, and I truly met and ran into a staggering number of wonderful people. Amongst them, and entirely serendipitously, Soyoung Scanlan.
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Cheese of the month February 2018: Balaki from Tinos, Cyclades/GR

It’s February and at least in Berlin winter will last another two months, pretty reliably. That’s fine, till now it’s been mild, and eternal summer would be unbearable, and I just returned from a long week in San Francisco with its glorious light. Still, a little more sun won’t do any harm to help the daily winter dose of vitamin D. My wonderful Heinzelcheese network in late summer had a white ball from Tinos landing in my cheese stocks, and with the help of modern wrapping and storing this made its way onto the cheese board only now, in the depth of winter. And there it shone and sparkled, just like the Aegian sun! » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month January 2018: Naturkäse from Thilo Metzger-Petersen, Hof Backensholz/D

So: the last research trip in 2017 for my new book (to be out in time for the Frankfurt book fair in mid-October, but manuscript still in the making) took me to Hof Backensholz in the very north of Germany, on the Danish border. Backensholz is a pioneer of raw milk farmhouse cheese, Thilo’s mother started in the early 1990s to work her husband’s milk into cheese instead of keeping calm and being optimistic about the milk price. » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month December 2017: St Jude from Julie Cheyney, White Wood Dairy/NE Suffolk, UK

„I’d like to make that milk sing in the cheese.“ Julie Cheyney is no romanticising back-to-the-land hippie (and nothing against those!), but a solid, experienced specialist (she was married to a Hampshire farmer for almost 30 years). Since five years she is above all busy with cheese making and for that purpose even moved with her White Wood Dairy from Hampshire to Bungay in the northeast of Suffolk, in search of really good, singing milk. » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month October 2017: Pecorino di Farindola, Abruzzo/Italy

It wasn’t easy to settle on a candidate for this month, after a whole row of wonderfully packed weeks traveling from cheese to cheese! But I’ll be working on that long list, promised. For October, let’s go south, once more, to Abruzzo, between the Gran Sasso mountains and Pescara on the Adriatic Sea, for a lesson on rennet: Pecorino di Farindola. » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month September 2017: Pultost from Avdem in Lesja, Gudbrandsdalen/Norway

Anybody with even a fleeting idea of Norwegian cheese history might wonder about the combination of Pultost and Gudbrandsdalen. This long-stretched valley surrounded by high mountains in the southern heart of Norway is commonly associated with brunost. Brunost, literally brown cheese and also known as geitost, goat cheese, is part of the Norwegian identity, just like elk, reindeer and snow. » Weiterlesen…