News from the Rhine, white on red: Gunderloch and Kühling-Gillot

Once upon a time, a real long time ago, Rheinhessen wasn’t cool at all. The word as such was almost an insult back then, before the new dawn broke with all the wonderful, adventurous young wine producers we take for granted nowadays… However, there was some excellent wine, above all Riesling, and it grew where the Rhine flows along steep terraces with deep red soil, between Nierstein and Nackenheim, on the so-called Roter Hang. » Weiterlesen…

2011 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kesselstatt and Beenleigh Blue

We all have those films in our head which are triggered unintentionally by certain keywords. Take blue cheese: shouldn’t you have sweet wine with that? The Roquefort people have told us so many times about Sauternes being the perfect match with its sheeps‘ milk sweetness and penicillium spicyness, and for obvious reasons the Sauternes producers never contradict them… Well, my cellar isn’t exactly overflowing with Sauternes, and really good Roquefort is a rarity (so much of the stuff tastes overly salty and sharp)…  » Weiterlesen…

2011 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kesselstatt und Beenleigh Blue

Wir haben alle diese Filme im Kopf, die bei bestimmten Stichpunkten automatisch ablaufen. Zum Beispiel Blauschimmelkäse: gehört dazu nicht Süßwein? Die Roquefort-Fraktion hat uns so oft erzählt, Sauternes sei der perfekte Wein zu der Schafsmilch-Fülle und Penicillium-Würze, und die Sauternes-Winzer nicken immer eifrig mit dem Kopf… » Weiterlesen…

The same, yet different: 2012 Roter Riesling from Corvers-Kauter, Rheingau

In case reading that heading makes you feel dazed and confused: yes, it does mean red Riesling, and it’s not a joke. The white queen has a red sibling! Well, red… let’s make that pinkish  in berry and white in the glass. But it’s rare. To my knowledge it’s been almost extinct until 2006, when a few producers in the Rheingau started to look after it. » Weiterlesen…

Riesling und Milchiges auf Spitzenniveau im Rutz, Berlin

Die sterne-ambitionierte Küche kennt Milchiges meist nur als Sahne oder Butter – abgesehen vom Käsegang in klassischer oder bearbeiteter Form (wobei letzteres oft anmutet wie ein Wein, dem man noch ein paar Spritzer dies und einige Gramm das hinzugefügt hätte, einfach nur, um die eigene Bedeutsamkeit als Sommelier zu beweisen – kein Kommentar). Um so mehr Applaus für diese grandiose Komposition von Marco Müller im Rutz in Berlin: Gelbe Wildtomate, marinierte Jacobsmuschel & Schafsmilch. » Weiterlesen…

Riesling and milky substances at Rutz, Berlin

Classically trained ambitious chefs mostly use dairy products in the form of butter and cream, as well offering a cheese course (which they sometimes can’t help to fiddle around with, as if a sommelier added a dash of this and a few grams of that to wines, just to prove his or her own importance – no comment). Therefore a big applause for this extremely succesfull composition from Marco Müller at Rutz in Berlin: wild yellow Tomate, marinated scallop & sheep’s milk. » Weiterlesen…

22.9.13 Slow Food Cheese in Bra/Piedmont: German mountain cheese and Riesling

A pittoresque medieval small town in Piedmont full of cheeses from all over the world – from September 19th until 23rd the Cheese once again turned Bra into a taste of paradise. Even better: for 90 minutes mountain cheese and top Riesling wines from Germany were in the spotlight of a workshop I have been organising and moderating. As is the case with Slow Food in general and the Cheese (which is taking place every second year, alternating with Salone del » Weiterlesen…

2011 Elesko Riesling 1 and Valençay

What do I know about Slowakian Riesling? Embarrassingly little, such as that this one, the 2011 „1“ from Elesko, grows in the small Carpathians in the Modra region, not even two hours drive east of Vienna. And that with 12% alcohol it is light in a very pleasant way, but in the depth of winter also quite refreshing due to the characteristic Riesling acidity!  » Weiterlesen…