Riesling and milky substances at Rutz, Berlin

Classically trained ambitious chefs mostly use dairy products in the form of butter and cream, as well offering a cheese course (which they sometimes can’t help to fiddle around with, as if a sommelier added a dash of this and a few grams of that to wines, just to prove his or her own importance – no comment). Therefore a big applause for this extremely succesfull composition from Marco Müller at Rutz in Berlin: wild yellow Tomate, marinated scallop & sheep’s milk.

SchafsmilchThe sweetness of the raw scallop links seamlessly on to the tonguecaressing yoghurt, the braised tomato’s fruit dances with its quiet acidity, while a „stockcube“ made from jellied consommé is earthing all this with its contribution of umami. It dissolves ever so slightly when a few spoonfuls of barely warm sheep’s milk fond which is poured at the tabel around the solid components. Milk and tomato fall in love immediately and in spite of all luscious creaminess convey to the dish a wonderful happy-wellness-lightness… And as if all this wasn’t quite enough, Billy Wagner takes up the dance of fruit, acidity and spice in the glass with an extremely mineraly Riesling, the 2010 Wolfer Goldgrube trocken from Daniel Vollenweider in Traben-Trarbach/Mosel. Gorgeous. More dairy in this form, please!

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