Heinzelcheese was very proud and honored to have two giants at her side this time: Fritz Lloyd Blomeyer, Berlin cheesemonger 2.0, and Christian Stahl, self-styled winegrower who has been sowing the seeds of disruptive creativity in his home region of Franken ever since he started making wine in the family farm’s former pigstall in Auernhofen. Fritz brought his most exciting and unusual wares, Christian poured… those guys know how to jam it!
Both are completely unafraid of speaking the truth and doing things in completely different ways. Fritz manages to get the most delicate cheeses to Berlin’s coolest bars and restaurants in top shape, Christian positively enjoys battling all kinds of prejudices and old hats and actively dislikes the old-fashioned Bocksbeutel, the funny flat bottle traditionally used in his home region of Franken.
Together we explored how Capriole reacts with Hasennest, the Alps with Taubertal and goaty stuff with Franken Sauvignon Blanc. And because Christian actually came to Berlin “just” for this HeinzelCheeseTalk, I was offering you two consecutive and very different tables that night to sit down at; a HeinzelCheeseTalk double pack! You joined us very joyously first at our regular table in Markthalle Neun and then, very exclusively, at Cordobar in Mitte.
We started with Hasennest Müller-Thurgau in different vintages back to 2009 (very beautiful and still in tip top shape), which had Fritz cut hard cheese from the Allgäu, from Sennerei Lehern, nine and 18 months old. After that, Sauvignon Blanc, likewise fresh and more mature (2011 very elegant), with seven weeks old (!), liquid and yet not sharp Blühende Landschaften from Capriolenhof (a longtime Heinzelcheese favorite) as well as a quite strong, ripened Weinbauernkäse from Fritz. With Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc) came Antons Liebe, a soft washed rind cheese from Zurwies, then it was Silvaner in the glass, quite literally “best of”, Christian’s premium range.
With the current vintage 2014 (very young) Fritz handed us a semi hard St Barbara from Dorfkäserei Geifertshofen. But then came the highlight of the evening! the 2012 Silvaner (a beguiling, dense, golden flow of a wine) inspired him to spoon out an immensely mature Regow Rouge from Capriolenhof onto our (Soluna) bread. As if we needed any further proof for his impressive pairing talent… Most sommeliers would have reached for sweet wine or spirits, or even thrown their tattooed hands in the air in despair when faced with the intense aroma of the super ripe cheese. Christian’s Silvaner however joyfully embraced it, and everybody cheered loudly!
After this highly enjoyable session (with our youngest HeinzelCheeseTalk activist Zoe honoring us with her cheerful presence!) we took ourselves complete with giants, some larger bottles and some fresh blood at the table straight to the nightlife of Berlin’s Mitte, the wine seething Cordobar. Here Christian poured his famous Scheurebe (beware, extremely addictive!), and Fritz spooned his stuff directly onto our hands… and it all ended, at some pint, as usual, at the bar. HeinzelCheesers – you were ace, the best. I bow in gratitude for your inspired and inspiring joining into the jam – cheerio and see you soon.
HeinzelCheeseTalks take place regularly, usually on a Friday at 6pm at Markthalle Neun in Berlin-Kreuzberg. I bring some interesting cheese, open a few bottles of wine, and we sit around the large table opposite the Suff wine stall, tasting, drinking, talking, discussing (mostly in German – but we usually manage to cater to English speakers too). Invites are sent out about ten days before we meet, to a mailing list you can join here. Reservations need to be confirmed and are strictly by first come first serve – so be quick! And please do let me know if you can’t make it – there is always a waiting list. A donation of ten euros per person (or one or two euros more if you really had a lot of fun…) is much appreciated. Cheesio!