Ursula Heinzelmann, Wein- & Essenschreiberin
I bought these rennet tablets ages ago at Dean & Deluca in St Helena/California, and then just forgot them in my kitchen cupboard. You’re probably familiar with that: I really should try this… but not just now. What intrigued me into buying them was the historic English dish named junket.
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It’s December, Advent, the time to open one little door after another every morning, light another candle every week, the air sweet and heavy with cinnamon stars, Stollen cake and Hutzelbrot fruit bread. Strange to remember amidst all this Hygge, Gemütlichkeit und deliciousness that the four weeks before Christmas are actually fasting weeks. Stollen cake originally was an austere affair… How do I get from Stollen to cheese? My cheese of the month similarly represents an act of renunciation: Pannerone Lodigiano is made without any salt. » Weiterlesen…
The holy trinity of the small valley one hours drive west of Lausanne are wood (that forest), cheese (that milk transformed into wares for less remote, lucrative markets), and watches (a combination of long winter days without cheesemaking, iron ore deposits and Huguenot immigrants’ skills). Yes, they are all here, the big brands you know from ads, James Bond movies and City bankers’ wrists. Fortunately the valley’s signature cheeses (depending on the season, the milk is either made into Vacherin or, during the summer, transformed into large wheels of Gruyère) are a little more affordable. And Vacherin in particular is a model of regionality. » Weiterlesen…
Even if the sun still has a real burn, September sounds like autumn to me, sounds like a certain golden glow, a quietness in the air… and it sounds like squash! And such a bright orange squash calls out for risotto. Which finally brings us to cheese: Castelmagno, that cave ripened, ancient original from the Piemontese Alps. » Weiterlesen…
When I wrote the invite for this cheesetalk I had been sitting in Cambridge MA, and those of you familiar with the ongoings in Heinzelcheese land, or just generally knowledgeable in cheesy matters, knew where I would go to get my cheese: Ihsan Gurdal’s Formaggio Kitchen is a real paradise. During my five weeks in the US I had met so many fantastic people, tasted such great cheeses and wonderful wines, that I wanted to share at least of few of them with you. For instance David Gremmels‘ excellent blue cheeses from the Rogue River valley in southern Oregon. Or the Cowgirls‘ fantastic soft cheeses from Marin County, one hour drive north of San Francisco, right on the Pacific. And so much more… » Weiterlesen…