Cheese of the month March 2014: Ziegen-Deichgraf from the Ostenfelde Dairy/D

This a monthly series which I have been publishing for years. You can subscribe here, to get the latest cheese delivered directly on to your screen. 

In my Heinzelcheese life, Friday means Markthalle Neun: from 6 till 7pm I’m sitting with non-German foodies around the big Eatdrinktalk table to drink wine, taste cheese and practice German in a totally delicious, easy way. As an equally delicious side effect, Friday is Heinzel-cheese-shopping day, because the Markthalle’s cheese offers are excellent. Therefore this month’s cheese comes from Kreuzberg…

KnippDeichgrafWell, in fact, it doesn’t really, of course. It stems from the Ostenfelde dairy, up in Schleswig-Holstein, in the very north of Germany, near Husum. That’s where Hauke ’sKoll produces the best Tilsiter I’ve ever tasted. Hauke favoured language is Plattdeutsch (a variant of German non-understandable to me), he is as ambitious as he is pragmatic, and thus a very good cheesemaker. Besides Tilsiter, the cheese of the Baltic shores, he makes Alpine style hard cheese (I really can’t use the word mountain in connection with the maritime, flat landscape), not only from cows‘ but also goats‘ milk. The result he calls (in high German – pragmatic!) Ziegen-Deichgraf, goat dyke Count: well-matured, dense, and more intense than the cow version. I’m so glad I only have to walk to Kreuzberg to get it! There lovely Sanni stands in the Knippenbergs‘ bright red cheese-trailer and amongst all the other superb cheesy offerings the Count is waiting for me and my foodies. ZIE-GE, goat. KÄ-SE, cheese. KÖST-LICH, delicious!

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