Ursula Heinzelmann, Wein- & Essenschreiberin
Emmental – isn’t that where we were for last month’s cheese? Indeed. But, and, to jump right in (put a protecting hand under your jaw!): strictly speaking Soft White isn’t a cheese at all, as it’s made from cashews instead of cow’s milk. » Weiterlesen…
Emmental? Isn’t that that pale more-holes-than-boring-plasticky stuff, really cheap and often leaving a burning feeling on your tongue? Yeah, sure – rare is the success story which does not end in tears due to commercial cannibalisation, sadly. But fortunately, almost as often, eventually, it also leads to a return to the origins, the actual reason for its success. Therefore I offer you: Emmental. With that gorgeous, discreet aroma, that hint of sweetness and walnuts, pleasantly mellow, but not dry at all… » Weiterlesen…
Almost two years old, dense and brittle, yet the very opposite of dry, the hard, crumbling density melts into a gorgeously fruit and caramel driven loveliness, both savory and sweet, cheese and dessert, like a rich rice pudding yet so much better… Cironé is quite a newcomer at cheese counters a bit worldwide, but in its essence an ancient classic. » Weiterlesen…
In theory April sounds like spring, even in Berlin, but this year it starts with Easter and snow. White Easter are not that unusual, when still at easter-egg-searching-age I remember quite a few chocolate-filled nests in my grandmother’s cold white garden. Fifty years later I positively rejoice in the low temperatures outside as they provide me with a perfect excuse to rave about Raclette instead of presenting you with spring-light Ricotta or the first chèvre. » Weiterlesen…
The holy trinity of the small valley one hours drive west of Lausanne are wood (that forest), cheese (that milk transformed into wares for less remote, lucrative markets), and watches (a combination of long winter days without cheesemaking, iron ore deposits and Huguenot immigrants’ skills). Yes, they are all here, the big brands you know from ads, James Bond movies and City bankers’ wrists. Fortunately the valley’s signature cheeses (depending on the season, the milk is either made into Vacherin or, during the summer, transformed into large wheels of Gruyère) are a little more affordable. And Vacherin in particular is a model of regionality. » Weiterlesen…