Cheese of the month May 2017: Kamakh Rijal from Persia

Yes, no, I haven’t been to Iran or Kurdistan, Azerbaidjan or Armenia. Unfortunately, because my friend and colleague Naomi Duguid’s latest cookbook (which is as much about people and landscapes and history as it is about recipes) is pure temptation. However I don’t think I would have encountered Kamakh Rijal if food historian and Persia specialist Charles Perry who made me aware of it, is right (and he mostly is): this old cheese spread recipe seems to have gone extinct. » Weiterlesen…

A new cheese place: Alte Milch at Markthalle Neun in Berlin

„There is somebody who wants to start a cheese cave here at the market.“ That was the first thing I heard about Matthias Becker and his Alte Milch project, literally old milk. I admit, I didn’t take that very serious. I can’t remember if the tall lanky guy back then wore the same wooly hat like today, but it wouldn’t have done anything for my expectations. Since then I have long recanted, and today the Alte Milch stall for me presents one of the market’s highlights. » Weiterlesen…

The cheese of the month April 2017: Calle de cabreddu from Sardinia

In Sardinia three things are really abundant: sheep (three million of them, who get along pretty well with about half as many human beings), thistles (in an amazing number of varieties, from edible artichokes to just beautiful but pretty thorny), and stones (which in the course of the millennia have been arranged to all kinds of things, such as round Nuraghe temples and endless walls, but there are still plenty left lying around).
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My cheese of the month March 2017 is Rollright from King Stone Dairy – and a cheese place: the Jericho Cheese Company in Oxford

Round, glowing in a warm yellow orange and surrounded by a thin stripe of spruce bark, the paste a beguiling, spoonable runniness, that surely must be a perfectly ripened Vacherin from the Jura end of the Alps. And yet it isn’t. Instead of centuries of tradition the Rollright’s history goes back less than two years, and it is neither French nor Swiss, but English, from Oxfordshire. » Weiterlesen…

Slow Cheese in Bodrum/Turkey! March 2-5, 2017

Super excited about an upcoming trip to Bodrum on the Turkish coast, where the local Slow Food group has teamed up with many others to stage the second Slow Cheese. Against all odds, in spite of everything. Whoever has been following me for a while knows that I am a huge fan of Turkey’s traditional cheeses. » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month February 2017: Sura Kees from Montafon/A

While hibernating over Christmas and New Year Heinzelcheese obviously could not abstain completely from all turophilia and watched Dominik Flammer’s beautiful film about the Alps‘ culinary heritage. The episode in question is called Urkäse, ancient cheese. And with that yet another tiny part of the huge jigsaw puzzle that is the infinite universe of cheese fell on to its place… » Weiterlesen…

The Cheese of the month for January 2017: is not a cheese but rennet

I bought these rennet tablets ages ago at Dean & Deluca in St Helena/California, and then just forgot them in my kitchen cupboard. You’re probably familiar with that: I really should try this… but not just now. What intrigued me into buying them was the historic English dish named junket.
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Cheese of the month December 2016: Pannerone Lodigiano from Lombardy, Italy

It’s December, Advent, the time to open one little door after another every morning, light another candle every week, the air sweet and heavy with cinnamon stars, Stollen cake and Hutzelbrot fruit bread. Strange to remember amidst all this Hygge, Gemütlichkeit und deliciousness that the four weeks before Christmas are actually fasting weeks. Stollen cake originally was an austere affair… How do I get from Stollen to cheese? My cheese of the month similarly represents an act of renunciation: Pannerone Lodigiano is made without any salt. » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month October 2016: Vacherin Mont-d’Or, Vaud/CH

The holy trinity of the small valley one hours drive west of Lausanne are wood (that forest), cheese (that milk transformed into wares for less remote, lucrative markets), and watches (a combination of long winter days without cheesemaking, iron ore deposits and Huguenot immigrants’ skills). Yes, they are all here, the big brands you know from ads, James Bond movies and City bankers’ wrists. Fortunately the valley’s signature cheeses (depending on the season, the milk is either made into Vacherin or, during the summer, transformed into large wheels of Gruyère) are a little more affordable. And Vacherin in particular is a model of regionality. » Weiterlesen…

Cheese of the month September 2016: Castelmagno from Piemont

Even if the sun still has a real burn, September sounds like autumn to me, sounds like a certain golden glow, a quietness in the air… and it sounds like squash! And such a bright orange squash calls out for risotto. Which finally brings us to cheese: Castelmagno, that cave ripened, ancient original from the Piemontese Alps. » Weiterlesen…